09 April, 2013

Hot Cakes ~ A Molten Chocolate Cakery



Dreamy molten chocolate cakes. Boozy, frothy shakes. Big buttery cookies. Velvety sipping chocolate. These are just some of the offerings at Hot Cakes in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood, owned by Autumn Martin (former pastry chef for Canlis, and former Head Chocolatier for Theo Chocolate). While still working for Theo, Autumn first started selling the molten chocolate cakes at the local market in 2008 and using her award-winning Theo's chocolate in them. She soon had such a devoted following, that opening this shop was clearly the next step.

The space is quite small, fairly sparce but cozy, and smells decadent. She offers other tasty items besides chocolate—sweet and savory pies, shakes and malts, a full coffee bar, and handmade salted caramel sauce, to name a few—but, in my opinion, the chocolate is really the draw.

About a month ago, on a cold, quiet Saturday morning, just after she opened, Autumn gave my friend and me a private tour of the tiny facility. We got to sample various types of chocolate in the various stages of making. (The cold-smoked chocolate chips were surprisingly mouth-watering.) In addition to serving food and drinks in the shop, she gives classes on truffle making, and distributes some of her organic products to specialty shops around the nation.

Autumn is doing something she’s immensely passionate about, but also something she’s clearly gifted at. She sources high-end ingredients for the innovative desserts she creates, and it shows in the flavor and quality of her products. We got to take home a bag full of other goodies, such as apple butter and take-n-bake peanut butter cookies. I have yet to taste anything there that didn’t meet or exceed my expectations. Everything is made from organic ingredients and a few of her items are vegan.

Most of you know that I hoard (er, collect) cookbooks. And I'm happy to say that today, Autumn’s new book “Malts & Milkshakes” goes on the market. (You can order from Amazon. She might also sell it in the shop.) It contains 60 recipes for boozy shakes, soda fountain classics, and gourmet syrups and herbal-infusions for shakes and malts.

All photos by Jackie Donnelly Baisa










30 December, 2012

20 Notable Culinary Trends in 2012

This year, much like last year, had some pretty specific culinary trends. Last year was all about microdistilleries, street food, foraging, and pie. This year, for a variety of reasons, we've seen a rise in cake pops, ceviche, bitters, and fried eggs atop our meals. Some items overlapped years (bacon-in-everything is the trend that won't die), some fads have already quickly come and gone (Twinkies) and some trends have sparked a new craze among food bloggers and home cooks (do-it-yourself marshmallows).

As I feel the need to state every year, I am in no way a culinary expert. As a food photographer, cookbook collector, and social media junkie, I do however routinely observe culinary trends through photography, various food blogs, gastrojournalists, chefs, local and regional restaurants, and food purveyors and manufacturers.

These are the biggest trends I've noticed in 2012, from my tiny perch in the great gastroverse. I've also made a few culinary predictions for 2013 and have added a brand-new section: my top five cookbooks of 2012.

Enjoy!

2012 Trends

Cake pops. I, personally, have not had one, but I've seen them around for about 2-3 years. However, this year the trend exploded with the availability of some new cookbooks and cake pop makers to make them in.

Peruvian food. Particularly ceviche. While I've eaten it here and there over the years, it has gained popularity exponentially in the last year. Peruvian is the new Italian.

Riesling, rosé, and chardonnay. These wines are all making remarkable comebacks, and dry rieslings are trending anew. Whites and rosés seem to be enjoying almost as much time in the spotlight these days as their ever-popular red counterparts.

Side towels/tea towels. They are the new pot holder, dish rag, or table napkin these days. Culinary author Michael Ruhlman even hawked them this year. 
 
Refrigerator pickles. People are pickling anything these days, including fruit. Refrigerator pickling is essentially small-batch, short-term pickling that does away with steamers or vacuum-tight lids.

Mason jars. Jars with lids were all the rage this year, particularly with regard to the aforementioned refrigerator pickling, but also for sauces, icebox jam, and drinks.

Food blogger cookbooks. An enormous amount of cookbooks came out this year by food bloggers across the globe, many just in my own city alone. Those with a strong culinary web presence, a lot of followers, and especially those who develop recipes, have a strong chance of publishing a cookbook these days.

Frozen pops. A lot of people, including myself, have made their own frozen popsicles this year, using both traditional and non-traditional ingredients. There were also quite a number of recipe books on frozen pops that came out this year.

Gin. So, I'm not sure if it is because of Queen Elizabeth II's Diamond Jubilee this year (the Queen is a gin fan), the admission of spirits into grocery stores in my state, or all of the new micro-distilleries popping up, but gin seems to be enjoying a resurgence, at least in my area. Since it was the first hard liquor I ever tried, and since I was a fan of the gin bars while living in Belgium, I'm enthusiastic, despite my lack of royal title.

Salted caramel. This one has really been hit for a couple of years now, but it's popularity is not waning in any way, and in fact, quite steady. And I can see why; sugar, cream, and salt remains an outstanding flavor combination and pairs well with all sorts of other sweets, such as dark chocolate, chocolate or vanilla-based cakes, and ice cream.

Watermelon. This sweet summertime fruit has received a savory makeover. A hugely popular recipe currently is a watermelon and feta salad. Also popular is watermelon salsa, pickled watermelon, and throwing watermelon into stir fries.

Bitters. Cocktails have been on the upswing for a couple of years now, and mixologists are using bitters to create signature drinks. Some people are even making their own concoctions. There is just about every bitter you can possibly think of these days, such as sriracha, baked apple, and tomato.

Speculoos. This Belgian spiced cookie (also popular in the Netherlands, called Speculaas) has won the hearts of food bloggers everywhere. From making the cookies themselves, to using them as pie crust or in a spreadable form, this is quite popular right now. A local grocery store chain here even sells Speculoos-filled dark chocolate bars.

Fried egg. This was the year that people put a fried egg on top of everything--sandwiches, oatmeal, soups, stir fries, pizza, you name it. If it's food, chances are you can put an egg on it.

Chicken and waffles. I have seen this on several restaurant menus this year, and friends of mine (both online and off) order it enthusiastically. All I have to say about this one is... What the fig?!? This is a flavor pairing that I'd never imagine. Until I try it, though, I am trying to keep an open mind. For now, I'll just sit here and bask in my befuddlement.

DIY marshmallows. People are making their own, homemade versions of these sweets, infusing various flavors such as lavender and peppermint. I've received a couple of packages from people as gifts this year.

Hydroponics. Now this technology--growing plants outside of soil--has been around at least since the 15th century. Lately, however, it is being used in much greater capacities. It is thought to yield bigger crops, allow plants to grow in non-native or harsh environments, use less water, and avoid most pests (and thereby, pesticides).

Poutine. This French-Canadian dish of essentially fries, cheese curds, and gravy is simple, but it can also have many variations. (If you are not a poutine purist, read on.) I've seen restaurants add meat or foie gras, substitute different cheese (blue for curds), use bolognese instead of gravy, or add hot sauce. I am a long-time fan of gravy over fries, so this trend is a great one for me (despite it being something of a heart attack in a bowl).

Twinkies. I'd love to skip right over this one, but I can't. Not only did America go completely mental and buy up every twinkie in the store when Hostess announced it was shuttering, but food bloggers and sweets shops have developed their own (albeit healthier) versions now. It's already on the downward trend again, but it might not fade completely away if Hostess gets bought.

Fictional food. Strangely, there have been all kinds of cookbooks written based on fictional shows or films: Downton Abbey, Mad Men, Game of Thrones, Hunger Games, Harry Potter, and so on. (I can't quite imagine what would be in the Hunger Games cookbook.) Apparently, cookbooks are the new action figures, to sell on the side to fans.

2013 Predictions

Non-traditionally boozy drinks. Spiked coffee and boozy shakes are on an upward trend right now.

"Green" foods. With marijuana now legal in two states (including my own), and undoubtedly more to follow, I predict a wave of herb-friendly foods, not just brownies.

Popcorn. Yes. Again. Pimped-out popcorn is growing in popularity again--spicy, crunchy, sweet, salty, you name it.

Aussie yoghurt. Greek yogurt has had its day. Time to move over and try the creamy, velvety Aussie-style yoghurt (spelled with an "h"), which is traditionally sweetened with honey. It tastes very caloric, but isn't. My favorite brand is Noosa, but Wallaby is also very tasty.

Touch-screens. Ordering and/or paying via touch-screen iPads (or other tablets) in restaurants, bars, and cafes is becoming more common. I imagine this will be the norm in another year or so.

My Top Five Cookbooks of 2012

I am a self-professed cookbook hoarder. Since this is the only thing I collect, and my bookshelves are not yet encroaching on the neighbors', I constantly enjoy new recipes and reading material. While I'm still very selective with my cookbook shopping, I've bought dozens of them this year, from various food styles, regions, and skill levels. While I do love to cook from these books, I also happen to simply love reading about recipes, the chefs and authors who created (or added their own twist) to them, and the familiar or completely exotic places they hail from. I also love brilliant food photography, and spend more quality time reading through a cookbook full of great images than one without.

It was hard to pick my top five, because there wasn't one book this year that I didn't love, and I actually have too many "favorites," including those written by friends. These five, however, were the ones that I repeatedly went back to, poured over, and bookmarked. Ergo, I present the Fabulous Five.

Jerusalem. A stunning cookbook from co-authored by London's renown chef Ottolenghi. The recipes are flavorful and accessible to home cooks. So far, I've made the roasted cauliflower with hazelnuts, Balilah, and Mejadra, all exquisite. There is also a pistachio soup I'm dying to try.

Homemade: Winter. After the popularity of "Homemade", this Dutch couple have put together yet another two volumes (Winter and Summer) and the Winter edition is a new favorite of mine. It was inspired by Yvette's childhood in Ireland. But it's not an Irish cookbook, rather a gastronomic infusion of Ireland, the Netherlands, and France. The drawings and photography are simply stunning, not to mention the recipes themselves. And there's an entire chapter called "Cake." Need I say more?

The Complete Bocuse. Chef Paul Bocuse is legendary in France and beyond. He's has three Michelin stars since the mid-60s, and he is really the face of modern French cuisine. This is an unlikely book for me to pick as a favorite because it's an enormous tome (with 500 recipes) and I find French cuisine sometimes inaccessible. But au contraire! The recipes in this book are both lovely and not overly hoity-toity. In fact, some are so simple that there are only a couple of ingredients, such as eggs with tomatoes and herbs. The book itself, while very heavy, is absolutely gorgeous with an enormous amount of photos and the recipes are true winners.

What Katie Ate. As a food blogger/photographer, Katie has made an international name for herself. her book is just as stunning (if not more so) than her blog. The book itself feels like a culinary travel journal. The only recipe I've made from it so far is the mini beef with bacon meat pies, but there are so many recipes bookmarked for future experimentation, that I ran out of book flags. Every recipe sounds brilliant. I've never read a cookbook so many times.

Fäviken. This is, simply put, my Cookbook of the Year. Without a doubt, I will own this book until someone puts me in a nursing home. Chef Magnus Nilsson is phenomenal and heads the restaurant that this book hails from, in northern Sweden. Its recipes are not particularly accessible to the average home cook (although not entirely esoteric, either), but despite that, it's a testament to the sheer uniqueness and quality of the book itself that I consider it my current favorite. The recipes are mostly tiny courses (French-style in that regard) but oh, so brilliant. One part of the vinegars section is called "Vinegar matured in the burnt-out trunk of a spruce tree". It isn't for everyone, but my goodness, is it for me.

Question

Are there food trends, or cookbooks, that really leapt out at you this year?

19 August, 2012

Strawberry-Balsamic Ice Pops



When summer temperatures soar, I can't seem to get enough Popsicles, ice cream, and frozen fruit pops. I rarely indulge in a lot of sweets anymore, but I admit that I'm a sucker for frozen desserts. When I saw the book People's Pops, I immediately ordered it with some ice pop trays, and made my own. I've played around with making lots of ice creams in the past but these are a bit different, are incredibly simple to make, and take almost no time to throw together (but then you have to wait 5 or 6 hours to indulge, so you need to plan ahead).

I adapted this recipe from the book by adding cream and not using lemon juice; the balsamic is definitely enough "sour" to brighten the flavor of the strawberries. I've enjoyed strawberry-balsamic ice cream the last couple of years, so felt the cream would give it a great consistency. There are 64 other fantastic and unique ice pop recipes in this book, many using herbs, some have booze, and many have unconventional fruits for ice pops, such as apples, canteloupe, and figs. I will definitely be using this book well into fall, as there are seasonal varieties, depending on what's in season.

People's Pops is an ice pop shop in New York City that is going like gangbusters. With recipes like this, I can totally see why.

Ingredients.

1 lb. strawberries, hulled
3/4 cup simple syrup (recipe below)
1/4 cup cream
3 TB balsamic, or to taste (the average supermarket variety is fine in this recipe)

Instructions.

Make the simple syrup several hours ahead by combining 2/3 cup water with 2/3 cup sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until sugar is completely dissolved and liquid is transparent. Remove from heat and cool.

Put the strawberries, syrup, cream, and balsamic in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. (If you like bigger fruit chunks, don't completely puree.)

Pour the strawberry mixture into your fruit pop molds; leave a half-inch of room at the top for expansion. Insert the sticks and freeze for about 5 or 6 hours, or until solid.

To unmold, run some warm water over the outside edges of the molds for a few seconds and then lightly tug at the sticks until they release. Serve immediately, or put into freezer bags and freeze for later.

Makes 10 normal-sized frozen fruit pops.

Images.





18 August, 2012

Gorgeous Gourmondo


Gourmondo Catering is a fantastic client who has hired me on multiple occasions to shoot their updated menu offerings. The ladies I work with there have a natural eye for detail and make styling a breeze. In most cases, we take a modern, minimalistic approach, but once in a great while, we let our rustic flag fly. 

This is just a small sampling of the foods I've shot over many different shoots. The foods are always incredible to look at and, and the ones I've tasted were outstanding.

If you are looking to cater an event, or would like to order boxed lunches, please look them up!










14 August, 2012

Three Days of Food Styling

On-location picnic shoot

If there is a more fabulous food photography/styling trio, I certainly don't know about it! Although I already shoot professionally, I still try to learn and add tips to my repertoire, and so when I saw this workshop come available, with three people in the industry who I adore and admire for their immense collective talents (Clare Barboza, Helene Dujardin, and Becky Selengut), I couldn't resist signing up. While I am pretty good at composition and shooting itself, I was very weak in the styling department. So, for me, I learned more about styling than with the photography part.

Before arriving, I imagined I'd learn a few new things to add to my own food photography knowledge bank. This, however, was a gross understatement. I learned immensely by three days of total immersion and the wide variety of projects we worked on (studio work, specific styling requirements, on-location shoots, full restaurant shoot, post-production work, etc.). Not only that, but the three different sets of eyes and experiences were well-rounded and expansive. I noticed that all of the attendees work, including my own, got better and better as the days went on.

One thing I learned was that you can be given an assignment and if it doesn't look and feel how you like the first few photos, then mix it up and create more of what you had in your head. Here are two examples of where I started with a simple fig and goat cheese crostini and a plate of Argentinian beef with chimichurri sauce, didn't like them, so completely changed them mid-stream. This is allowed! I love it. If you aren't "feelin' it" by the first couple shots (or even while you are styling), then by all means, do it differently.

While the first one is not bad (although a bit dark),
I was going for the look of the second.
Modern. Bright. Minimal.

I liked the idea of a single crostini on a bright surface but it didn't jump out at me.
Also, while the colors in the first matched the toast,
I decided richer colors worked better.

At the end of the third day, we were asked to pick what we thought our strongest photos/sets were from each type of assignment. These are mine and the themes I was going for, or those that were assigned to me specifically.

Park Picnic

Poppy Restaurant
Salad Setting
Grandma's Table
Small bites

Large platters of food can be hard to photograph

Telling a story of the restaurant/food

Photojournalism

Restaurant with modern decor

Platter of differing heights of items

Meat is very hard to photograph

Also, this has nothing to do with anything at all, but I love this shot I took at Poppy's bar area.

A line of bitters

After three days of shooting and processing, we sat down to the most amazing closing dinner, prepared by Becky Selengut and Marc Schermerhorn. A Thai/Viet spread to die for. Becky's wife April gave us a short lesson on wine (and why we should give riesling another try).

A lovely class. I am very honored to have been a part of it.











04 August, 2012

My Trip to the Upper Midwest


Last week, I came back from a trip to the Upper Midwest (northeastern Wisconsin, and the upper peninsula of Michigan). Before this, I'd never explored the Midwest apart from a couple of quick trips to visit a friend in Duluth (and an even quicker jaunt to Superior from there). I'd loved it there and was excited to return to the region and really explore it.

I stayed on a little chain of lakes right on the Michigan border (see photo of lake above) with Mike and his son at his family's cottage. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing new things, talking to the friendly locals, and especially trying the different foods. Interesting culinary differences: supper clubs, Friday Fish Fry, cheese curds, cheese shops, pasties, huge chocolate-chip pancakes, and butter burgers. (Sad to say that I did not try chocolate cheese or fried cheese curds.) It is a wonder I did not come home 500 pounds heavier, though. The Midwest food is not for the weak of heart!

Instead of writing a travelogue, I think I'll just let the photos tell the stories. (Click to view them larger.)

Cheese shops dot the Wisconsin landscape
Curds and smoked string cheese




Keyes Lake, Florence, WI


Barb's Cafe, Florence, WI
Jean Kay's Pasty Shop

Damian's Pasties


A butter burger from Kroll's in Green Bay, WI (yes, there is butter on that burger!)
Ski jump and and viewing deck
Annie's Trading Post

Pembine Family Restaurant
In Wisconsin, you can get your hash browns *inside* your omelette. Genius.
Friday Fish Fry is popular in Wisconsin (I had the Walleye Fish Fry)
The Tavern on Central, Florence, WI
Kids playing in the barrens

Lambeau Field, Green Bay, WI (Go, Packers!)
Steamin' Joe's cinnamon rolls were perhaps the best I've ever had!
Tried two Wisconsin beers, both from New Glarus Brewing, both good!
Gina Marie's Supper Club